Still completely unrelated to boats, but I needed somewhere to put this. Here is a
blow-by-blow guide to installing a minimal Ubuntu 16.10 to a ZFS
root, booted from EFI, which as used as a LXC host to act as an Apple "Time Machine"
destination.
This article is turning into a bit of a long story. It was originally published on
31st March 2015, but there are lots of updates since then. Check the bottom for new
content. Latest update is 7th September 2015
Part of the fun here is playing with new technologies, which includes Lithium Batteries.
As any fule know those are the ones that explode, are horrendously expensive and whose
performance doesn't live up to
their advertising.
There are those better qualified to cover the theory:
here's an excellent article
which I found after I'd already ordered the cells, which pleased me a lot as he has
more
knowledge than me and came to the same conclusions.
So no theory from me, just installation details. My goal is a combined starter/house
battery for a
small-but-electrically-intense boat with an outboard motor equipped with an alternator.
The outboard changes the game a bit because a) I can use one battery - if it goes
flat, I'll use
the pull cord, and b) the alternator will always be running when the motor is running.
This has
implications for LiFePo4 batteries, which don't like being overcharged.
First some conclusions:
It's much, much cheaper to build your own battery from cells than buy one in. At the
2014
Southampton Boat Show I wandered the stands and found only one supplier (Mastervolt)
that
dealt with Lithium batteries, who were offering an esoteric, outsized and wildly expensive
option. I gather availability is better in the US, but building your own battery is
still
comparatively easy.
If you're going to go with Lithium, plan this in at the start. Initially I was looking
at it
as a drop-in replacement down the line, but it rapidly became clear that I had to
build the
system around Lithium - specifically, the chargers (wind, solar, alternator, mains)
and the
means of measuring how much power in the battery must be specified with Lithium in
mind.
There is no such thing as a drop-in replacement here.
LiFePo4 is dangerous when it's overcharged. Yes there are other ways to damage the
battery,
but for me the big one is the spectre of an unbridled lithium fire. With LiFePo4
this risk is minimal unless you pump too much power into the battery (not the case
with other
Lithium chemistries, but they're not applicable here). So, you need a way to disconnect
the
charger and/or dump power, which implies a Battery Management System and some careful
thought.
And if you still need convincing, take a look at these numbers:
Lifeline GPL-4DL
CALB Cam 72 x 8
Nominal Voltage
12V
12.8V
Listed Capacity
210Ah
144Ah
Available Capacity (max lifetime)
105Ah (50% DOD)1
100Ah (70% DOD)
Charge Cycles (max lifetime)
1000
50002
Available Capacity (max power)
158Ah (80% DOD)
115Ah (80%)
Charge Cycles (max power)
550
30002
100% Discharge?
No
91% capacity after 290 cycles
Self Discharge
2% / month
04
Can be stored discharged?
No
Yes
Weight
56kg
16kg
Volume
25 litres
7 litres
Size (HxWxD)
220x220x527mm
218x135x240mm
Cost3
€604
€710
Lifeline recommend 50% DOD for max lifetime, and not more than 80%. I have a feeling the lifetime figures
might be quite optimistic as Odyssey claim "up to 400 cycles when discharged to 80%
DOD" for their AGM batteries.
EVTV have tested these cells extensively, and here is a manufacturer datasheet. This lists >= 2000 cycles, I'm taking the figures from
EVTV because they're from testing, whereas manufacturer datasheets are generally rubbish
Pricing in € because that's what I paid in. Price for the LiFePo4 cells includes the
BMS and Contactor, as I consider these essential. Pricing for the Lifeline battery
sourced from here. Both exclude VAT and shipping and prices from around October 2014.
OK, no self-discharge on the cells but if you have a battery management system that
will draw power -
I'm budgeting about 20ma, which is about 0.4%/month for this size of pack. For long
term storage
you'd disconnect this.
So what's my setup? My shopping list is below. A few of my purchasing decisions were
based on a
presumed 100A maximum current draw - this will be when using the electric start on
the outboard.
Finding actual measured figures on this is almost impossible - the Yamaha 9.9HP owners
manual lists
the "minimum marine cranking amps" as 323A, which is obviously not the current that
will be drawn
from the battery otherwise the cables would be the size of your arm. Best I could
find was a the
starter for a 9.9HP Evinrude
being measured at 32A,
and a Mariner 175HP
measured at 150A.
So 100A ought to do it.
8 x Calb CAM72 cells, in a "4S2P" installation - 4 sets of 2 parallel cells, wired
in series.
Each cell is rated at 3.2V with a 72Ah capacity, so I get 12.8V (give or take) and
144Ah.
Cost per cell is about €75 per cell, although inevitably that will vary. The cells
came with a
plastic outer case and a cover over the terminals, and the case was bolted to hold
the cells
firmly together.
Enough bus-bars to connect them - 8 came with the cells, I need 11 in total.
A pile of M6 Nordlock
washers. These were written up elsewhere, they're new to me but look useful when you absolutely, positively do not
want your bolts to shake loose.
A battery management system. I went with the
HousePower BMC, because it was relatively cheap,
simple, and I could understand it. It's sole purpose is to cut power to the battery
when
the voltage is too high or too low - nothing else. You'll need 4 x cell boards
(remove the fixed ring and solder on a wire for both the +ve and -ve connections,
terminated
with a crimped 6.2mm ring connector). Total cost was about USD$125.
A mains charger. I struggled to find one designed to work with LiFePo4, as opposed
to just an
"also works with Lithium" sticker. Although charging LiFePo4 is actually simpler on
paper than
lead acid - none of that bulk, absorption, float bollocks, just cut off at a certain
voltage -
ironically you're going to pay more for it. The
Sterling Power PCU1220
delivers 20A and has a configurable cut-off voltage, which is good as its standard
LiFePo4 profile cuts out at 14.6V. This is 3.65V/cell, the same as the "alert" level
in the BMS, which means the battery cutoff would constantly be tripping. So while
it's useful for the
initial balance, I'll be running a custom profile at 14.2V when installed to ensure
the alarm won't
trip. For these features I paid £269, which seems like a good investment.
Accessories for the Battery Management System. In my case, this is a Tyco Kilovac
LEV100
"Contactor" (as best as I can tell, just posh name for a big relay) for £10 on eBay
- some standard
automotive relays, a DPST switch (this will carry minimal current which compares nicely
to the
whacking great battery isolation switch you'd normally have to install for lead acid),
a pushbutton, and (for testing) a 12V buzzer and the end of
a 12V LED strip, wired into the high-voltage alarm circuit on the BMS.
A desktop PSU. This is an essential item for the initial balance, which is an equally
essential step that has to be done, although probably only once.
I bought a "Tenma 72-10480" on eBay for about £40, which will put out 3A - enough
if you're
not in a hurry.
A last-resort fuse. Everyone seems to recommend "Class T" fuses, but I couldn't find
one under 200A. I want to blow at 100A so got a 100A ANL fuse. Remember to spend time
laughing at
the "display fuses cases" for these on eBay, as they're apparently used by the lads
who beef
up their car stereos - "phwoar, look at my big shiny fuse". I bought a
Blue-Sea 5005 holder because it was made of a plastic that won't melt when things
go wrong (unlike
most of the boy-racer products), and some Blue-Sea fuses as they're ignition protected
- i.e. they won't catch fire when they blow.
Both more expensive than I would have imagined, the fuses alone are about £12 each
from Aquafax.
Cabling accessories - some 25mm² tinned copper cable, some 6mm and 8mm lugs and a
Hydraulic Crimper. Hydraulic
things are cool, and at £25? That's about the same as 1m of cable. Bargain.
Down the line this will be added to:
A Solar Power MPPT charger - this has to be designed for Lithium, and I'll go for
either a
Genasun GV-10 or GV-Boost, depending on the output voltage of the panels.
A shunt and a custom circuit board. Lead-acid batteries have a voltage that is linearly
proportional to their charge state, so you can derive one from the other. LiFePo4
doesn't, so
the simplest way to measure charge is "coulomb counting". A shunt will give you an
indicator
of current - to turn over a 9.9HP outboard I'm budgeting up to about 80A in short
bursts, so
have gone for a 50A shunt, coupled with a microcontroller that keeps track of the
current in
and out of the battery.
And here's the process.
Get yourself off to see Peter, CALB's European
reseller, who I'd highly recommend, or your seller of choice if you prefer. I'll admit I wasn't
100% sure what I was going to get in the box, but they turned up in with the cases,
covers,
bolts and busbars (order as many as you need). Pack of gum for size reference.
Step one, fit the busbars and wire on the HousePower "cell boards" - 4 of these, one
for each pair
of cells. The red LED will wink reassuringly when done - actually I suppose it could
be a warning,
I haven't read the instructions yet.
Once done carefully wire everything else in. Here is my setup - haphazard looking,
but it follows the
layout below (you can drag and zoom this - hooray for SVG)
Charge the pack as full as you can with the main charger. One of the cells will trip
the high
voltage alarm, that's fine. At this point the
HousePower cell-balancing guide
suggests a few options, but I would suggest the only one that is even remotely practical
is to
set your desktop PSU for 3.55V, connect it up to one of the cell pairs, turn it on
and walk
away. I wasted days trying to drain the cells and then going back to the main charger
- the fact
is if you're putting 20A into the cells, you can't even come close to balancing them
with the
BMS. After my initial charge I found I needed about 24-48 hours per pair of cells
- the current
started at 3A and gradually dropped to < 100mA at which point I'd move it to the next
pair of
cells.
Install everything in a box. I made a pretty sturdy box out of foam and glass with
a recessed area
for the control board, relays etc., and embedded some copper bars under the glass
on the top side
which I drilled and
tapped, so there are no exposed connections to the battery itself. Photo shows the
fuse, relay, BMS
board, buzzer, contactor and shunt (not wired in yet - awaiting my own battery management
system).
Cabling is 25mm² for the primary circuit and and 6mm² from the charger. Forgive the
chocolate box
connector, it's temporary.
If you're making your own box like this, don't forget to put in some means to secure
it - I can bolt it
down to the shelf with a couple of M6 bolts which thread into nuts embedded in the
bottom of the case.
Conclusions at time of publishing
So far, none. It's been wired in since about end of February 2015 and is taking charge
from the mains
charger and delivering power on demand. It's shut down when unattended at low voltage
(before I put the
charger in, and I left it running the main computer on the boat for about a week)
and at
high voltage (when I set the charger to 14.4V rather than 14.2V), and both times I
came in to find
the battery alarm on and everything disconnected as required.
However I don't have any proper measurement of charge status yet, or any long-term
figures. I haven't
hooked it into an alternator or solar for charging, and the most I've tapped it for
is about 10A: I need
to test starting the engine, which means buying an engine. So these tests will come
over time, and
I'll update this page when it does.
Followup 1: 5th July 2015
My battery controller has packed up. I'm a bit annoyed about this, it suddenly started
going haywire
with the main contactor flicking on and off rapidly. It could be a bad connection
somewhere, but I
couldn't identify where visually or with a multimeter. I'm also not terribly impressed
with the
design of the system - I remember a joke in Readers Digest as a kid about a car with
a
single red warning light in the middle of the dashboard, explaining that the experienced driver
will normally know what is wrong. I didn't find this very funny then and I
still don't now - there is no diagnostic information coming out of this board other
than a buzzer.
Inevitably I have designed a replacement system which has the key features I want
- integrated
coulomb counting, complete configurability of all levels and thresholds, and a USB
interface.
I'm ironing out the kinks but it's looking good so far. Will document it once it's
had a few
months shake down.
Followup 2: 14th August 2015
My new battery management system went in yesterday and is finally working, although
with caveats.
The design above needs revision.
As described, the shunt will not measure the power used by the BMS itself. This turns
out to
be important as the contactor I'm currently using, the Tyco Kilovac LEV100, draws
a whopping 460mA
to activate its coil. This is a vast amount of power. The coil generates a lot of
heat even
when the current is zero; when combined with the current required for a full charge
at
20A, the temperature of the BMS enclosure got up to 54°, which is not ideal - I had
to keep
bumping up the threshold for the high-temperature alarm!
When daytime sailing I'd probably have my primary computer, associated controllers,
transducers
and VHF on, which together draw about 1700mA, so the contactor would take 20% of the
total
power draw of the system. This might be OK in an electric car, but not if you're trying to
conserve power.
This again illustrates that a BMS for sailboats has a very different set of requirements
than one for electric cars or solar storage at home.
To fix this:
Move the shunt immediately after the fuse, and power the BMS after the shunt - the
shunt now
measures everything in and out of the battery.
Swap the contactor for something else. Options are a latching relay, which I'm uncomfortable
with
as if it (or the BMS) fails, it may fail in the on state. Option two is a solid-state-relay,
which
has negligible "coil" current but which will generate a lot of heat at high current.
Option three
is to do away with it altogether...
As designed the contactor will cut the battery from everything else, but it won't
isolate the various
circuits from each-other. This is bad - imagine it kicks in while you're accepting
charge from an
outboard motor. The battery is isolated, but the motor and your house system are still
connected -
filthy alternator power ravishes your delicate electrical system and trashes everything,
except your
safely isolated battery. Solution is to do away with the contactor, and instead ensure
each circuit
is on a separate relay which are all cut (and isolated) when a shutdown condition
occurs.
The cell balancing system I've currently designed is resistive, i.e. it dumps excess
power when charging
through a resistor. This is poor system. For one, it's dumping precious power and
makes heat, and
dissipating more than about 500mA is difficult. I recently discovered
active balancing with a flyback converter
which looks promising, although it will mean abandoning my single-wire cell loop.
On the plus side, my BMS talks over USB so I can easily hook it into my computer as
you can see above.
This was before I'd measured the battery
state of charge, which is why it's 0%. The power through the shunt is measured at
about 8000hz, so I can
very accurately count coulombs to record the state of charge.
It's also talking to the cell management boards so I can measure cell voltage and
temperature. This
turns out to be very important as it will tell me which cell is playing up and whether
the system
is properly balanced. Turns out it's not - see the graph on the right.
Hooray for raw data!
I hope this will partially
explain why when I measured a full charge/discharge cycle on the battery I got about
76AH, which is
way too low. Missing the 0.5A for the contactor as described above will throw this
off by another 5%,
so for now take that measurement with a large pinch of salt.
Followup 3: 7th September 2015
Last week we turned over the engine for the first time. The Yamaha 9.9 has a 600W
starter motor
(50A at 12V), so if we assume a large margin for losses in the process, turning the
motor over drew
probably in the region of 60 - 70A. We only ran the starter for a few seconds to verify
the wiring and
measure the current (inconclusive due to setup errors as it turned out).
A week later the battery was dead, and although the Battery Management System I'd
designed would have
informed me of this, ****ing British ****ing Telecom had seen fit to pull the plug
out of my internet
connection at the build site then make me wait two weeks for them to fix it. So no
idea when or at
what voltage the battery shut down. On inspection I found one - just one - of the
8 cells had
dropped to 2.4V, which should be impossible as a) this is below the minimum voltage
at which the
management system would have shut down, and b) the cells are wired in four sets of
two pairs, with
each parallel pair having the same voltage. The cell was one of the two that made
up "Cell 3" in the
PDF in my last report, which was the one that triggered the low voltage during discharge.
I'll skip the process of how we got there, but here's what we think happened.
First the setup. Each cell has a positive and negative terminal, 12mm in diameter
and tapped with an M6
thread, and made of aluminium. On top of these terminals are rigid copper bars 2.5mm
thick which link both the
two cells in the pair and the sequence of four pairs; the center of each bar has a
thin (<1mm) layer of
insulation. The bars are fastened to the battery terminals with an M6 machine screw
in A2 steel, locked
tight with a Nordlock washer - I think these are steel with a zinc protective coating.
When I set the cells up, I bolted them together in pairs, gave each pair an initial
full charge, and
they've been paired ever since.
Despite being connected by thick copper bars, on measuring the pair I found one cell
at 3340mV and one
at 2460mV. It's clear the copper wasn't actually touching both the terminals of the cells in this pair -
either as a result of some sort of thermal expansion and contraction due to the large
load, perhaps a
fraction of a mm shift in the cells as the battery moved around, or perhaps they had
never touched at all.
The copper bars are completely rigid and although they were bolted down firmly,
the layer of insulation in the middle along with the edge of the battery case could
have kept the copper
bar slightly suspended and prevented it from making a clean connection to the terminal.
The two
terminals would still have been connected through the steel bolt and the washer, and
we measured the
resistance of the washer at 10Ω, I suspect due to the coating. So there was some electrical
conductivitiy, but there should have been at least 100 times less resistance.
So what have we learned?
Quite a bit, as it turns out
The rigid copper bars supplied by the manufacturer are not a good choice to connect cells
together. The folk at EVTV use tinned
semi-flexible copper straps, which are a good idea but hard to source. An alternative
would be 1mm
thick copper washers between the battery terminals and the copper bars, to ensure
the bars will only
be in contact with the terminals, not the battery body.
The interconnection between cells must be done through copper connected directly to
the terminals.
Do not rely on the bolt or the washer, as the conductitivity of these is several orders
of magnitude
worse. In fact the bolts should really be electrically isolated from the battery terminals
to prevent
galvanic corrosion between the aluminium terminals and the steel bolts; I'll be changing
the A2 bolts
to A4 steel and coating them in Loctite before reassembling the battery. Their only
purpose should be
to clamp together the various copper bars and terminal connectors on the wires.
It is not enough to have one cell-monitor for each group of parallel cells. If a disconnect
like this happens within a group of parallel cells, the results will depend on which
cell the
cell-monitor board is on.
If the disconnected cell is the one being monitored, the cell will never show
any change in voltage as it is not part of the circuit. The other cells in this group
could drop
below their minumum voltage, or be charged above their maximum, resulting in a dead
cell or, in an
extreme case, fire.
If the monitored cell is not the one that is disconnected then the battery will appear
to be working
as normal, but the missing cell will mean a severely reduced capacity. Identifying
the cause will be
almost impossible without a serious imbalance like this occuring.
Both of these are fairly bad situations. Ensuring the voltage reported by each cell
adds up to the
voltage of the overall battery measured at the BMS will identify the first situation,
but not the
second (while I had this functionality in the BMS, in a fit of genius I'd commented
it out
during testing and never reenabled it).
The bottom line is to be aware that this failure mode exists in any BMS with one cell
monitor per
group of parallel cells; and this is a very common design.
Initial full charge of each cell should be done per cell, not per group of cells. Although the
group of parallel cells should in theory equalize to the same voltage, this process will take
a much longer time than you might imagine. The reason is the voltage difference between
the cells will
typically be very small: if the fully charged cell is at 3380mV and its lesser-charged
partner
at 3330mV, the 50mV difference means very little current will flow from one to the
next.
What happens next?
Well, first, this pretty much rules out me getting on the water before winter, which
is a pain in the
arse. The reason is I now need a complete redesign of the battery system, as some
other things came
up during testing:
A shunt isn't a very accurate way to measure current. After turning over the engine,
the
current draw on the system should have returned to its previous level, but was in
fact showing itself
to be about 2A different. I put this down to the change in resistance due to the heating
of the shunt
resistor - it's not good enough, so I'll be switching to an
ACS756
hall-effect current sensor, which I've tested before with some sucess.
The more reading I've done, the more I'm convinced constant cell balancing is a must,
even for
systems that are relatively lightly loaded like a house battery on a boat. LiFePo4
cell balancing
is a field that is advancing every few months - there are now about a dozen different
techniques I'm
aware of. I'll be attempting to implement one of the best of these (a cell-to-cell
balancer using a
quasi resonant LC converter and boost converter, which is as complicated as it sounds),
in the next
design. This should result in very, very high efficiency during balancing.
The rectifier on a Yamaha F9.9 is regulated - I was unclear on this, but bought the
service manual
and it looks like this is the case with any Yamaha outboard with electric start. Output
is regulated
at 13V regardless of engine speed, which is 3250mV per cell. This means the engine
alternator will be
able to prevent the battery from going completely flat, but will not be able to add
any significant
charge to the battery at all. If I'm to charge the batteries to above about 25% while
at sea, I will
have to use something else: solar, wind, towed impeller or
methanol.
Solar was always on the cards, but I was putting it off - no longer an option.
All up, a bit of a shit week, but finally accepting I'm going to miss the water this
year
might allow me to slack off the pace a little.